Saturday, August 15

Summer Vacation


For our last long break of the year, we took a little summer vacation. We've traveled to almost all corners of Korea, and we decided to head back to one of our favorite locations: Sokcho. This is the same place that we spent Christmas weekend, except this time we could enjoy both the mountain and the beach. We fell in love with our hotel during Christmas, and so we made arrangements to stay there again. After a little mishap the first night--where we stayed in a different hotel that was the equivalent of an empty college dorm room, at best--we were able to be comfortable and cozy again. In addition to the lovely and very hospitable accommodations, Sokcho has a lot to offer: a beach, a national park, and, to our surprise, a music festival.

The beach:
We were told to visit Naksan Park Beach, which ended up being a great choice. This was our first time at the beach since last summer at Lake Michigan. We were prepared. We had cards, Ben had new swim shorts, we had granola bars, sunscreen, and towels. We had to take a bus and then walk a ways to find our way to the ocean, but we finally made it. At first glance, it looked pretty much like a circus. That was mostly because there was a giant inflatable slide set up right near the entrance. Beyond that, colored umbrellas could be seen in the distance.

As we combed the beach, looking for the perfect spot to settle down, we came across this guy: who, apparently, had no desire to be in the sun.
That was much unlike us, however, whose milky-white bodies were ready to be a little sun-kissed. Some parts were crowded, or at least they seemed crowded because there were beach umbrellas that were cramped together in rows along the shoreline. As we walked a little further, looking for our perfect spot, we found a perfect place. And, since by this time we were feeling the heat of the sun, we decided to check out one of the vacant umbrellas. Well, thankfully, we found out before putting the towels down that it cost ten dollars to "rent" the umbrella. (We looked at all the umbrellas on the beach and realized that someone was making a fortune!)
We finally chose our spot, got settled, and tested out the ocean. It was, of course, absolutely freezing. This is Ben's first reaction to the water temperature. He decided to play around in the waves for a bit, like a big kid. Meanwhile, I just stayed on the beach and took video of him playing the the waves, like a big kid.
Look, in the corner, behind Jen...it's the ocean! This is the Korean East coast, which is essentially the Pacific Ocean. Our typical Ben-holds-the-camera-self-portrait-pose, but with a new background.

By the time we left, this is a bit what the beach looked like. Actually, the picture doesn't do it justice. There were hundreds and thousands of umbrellas, each with families underneath, enjoying the shade, and making the best of their ten dollar investment.
Talk about sun-kissed! Someone didn't put on very much sunscreen...
For modesty's sake, Ben opted not to put the picture of his tomato-red stomach and shoulders on the blog. It finally stopped peeling about three weeks later.

The Mountain:
Amazingly, the hiking is much different in the summer than in winter. As I recall, the last time we were here we were hiking in snow. More trails were open this time around, and so we went on a little hike around Mt. Seorak.

This is one of the views from near the top. The rocky-riverbed went throughout the park.
At the top! Well, actually, not at the top. This was a place to stop and look at the view, but it wasn't quite the top just yet.
You see, we kept going to the top of the trail, which was supposed to be a cave. Well, after climbing some steep rocky steps (and metal steps, too), we came to a small temple that was about the size of an average kitchen. Or, maybe smaller. And the three people that were there, including the lady-monk talking on her cell, were making it crowded. So, after a little let-down, we went back to this place, where we had a snack and a photo shoot.
Don't mind the safety rails...
This is just a picture to note how easy our hike was, compared to the guy in this picture climbing the mountain. Look closely, by that lonely tree in the middle of the picture. He's there. Or she.
Ben took this picture:
The music festival:

As we were about to go into the city for dinner, our hotel hosts stopped us and explained that there was going to be an international music festival in the little town square near the hotel. Well, we wouldn't call it international, really, unless it was because we were there...watching. Anyway, it was a fun hour or two of Korean musicians, like these guys below, a rising Korean rapper, an emcee inviting children to the stage to dance to Korean pop songs, and--the best part--a traditional Korean drum group. Unfortunately, we have mostly video of the music festival, and not many pictures. It was a nice finale to our much-needed summer break.


Flip Flops and Ice Cream

Summer has officially come and almost gone for many of you, and it has certainly not forgotten us. After our May vacations, we were been quite busy during our free time, enjoying the sunshine of the city. We've even found some nature to enjoy in Seoul. We hiked at one of the mountains in Seoul, a true escape from the city life. Around our area of town, "nature" means little pockets of trees and walkways that are quite random and are usually man-made. A park is a park, though, and the air at least feels a little fresher, quieter, and more peaceful. About an hour drive toward the coast took us to a mud beach. There is no other way to describe it. At the famous NamSan Tower downtown, we even saw a tree that was hooked up to an I.V., just like a hospital patient. Except that it wasn't in a hospital, and...it was a tree.

Here are some photos of May and June...and July

At the Mudflats with the Reigh Family:
The beach was so flat, and the difference between high and low tide caused about a half-mile of mud beach!


The Reigh family

Sticky...


BukHan San (BukHan Mountain) hiking trip:
First, the subway ride into Seoul.

Then, waiting in line for the bus.  Look at all those hikers!


Finally!  We meandered through narrow rocks that had built-in restaurants, up hills and up man-made stairs, through the forest and along the river trial.  What a view!  And this was only half-way up!
We felt a little "underdressed".  We won't mention that our friend, who did the same hike as these guys, wore some Chuck Taylors and jeans.  Some people really go all out!



Baking with JaYoung and KyungMin while Atsuko cooked us dinner.



Ben's LMC birthday party birthday cake:

Ben decided that his special birthday meal would be traditional dog soup!
Looks like beef, almost feels like a roast, but--don't be fooled. It has a hint of wet dog taste...

Our "new" one-room apartment:
We moved the beds to be closer to the air conditioner.
Now our kitchen, living room, bedroom, computer room, and dining room are...all in one!



WHO IS THIS handsome GUY?
The once-a-year-shave lasted for almost a week this year!
(it grew back after about three days)

NamSan Tower in downtown Seoul:

The apparently ailing tree and it's IV:



Spending the afternoon with Phoebe:

Cooling off with some ice cream:


Going to the park

Monday, July 20

The Rainy Season

It's the rainy season.

That's what our Korean friends and students have been telling us since early June. Multiple sources informed us that the rainy season was precisely between the last week of June and the second week of July. Well, after waiting patiently, and quite disappointedly, it finally rained...about ten days ago. That was sometime around July 10th, which, if you think about it, that was almost at the end of the rainy season.


Once it rained and we believed all the talk about "the rainy season", it came with a bang. Actually, with a splash. Since we've been in Korea, it has only rained and/or snowed about a dozen times, which isn't much for 8 months. That was until the rainy season. Now, when it rains, it rains for an entire day. And sometimes through the night, too. When it's windy, the umbrellas decide to invert and collect rain, rather than shelter us from it. Suprisingly, only one has broken so far. We've even been soaked a couple of times just waiting for a taxi so we don't get soaked walking to work.

Everyone has an umbrella during the rainy season. Don't be fooled, though, and think that people carry them around simply for the sake of being prepared for the torrential rainy season rain. Most women, particularly those over 40, are often seen carrying what I like to call a sunbrella, which is used to keep the sun off the face, and, occasionally--if the holder is not wearing long sleeves--off of the arms. These are quite different from the traditional umbrella, usually lacy, flowery, and dainty looking. Of course, the one picture I snuck of a sunbrella in use happens to look just like your typical, rainy day umbrella, black and practical. Except, it just isn't.

So, what the rainy season means for us is a lot of reading, soggy pant legs, and even more appreciation for the sunny days at the park. Without an umbrella.

Sunday, May 10

The Island


Blues, greens, browns, and lots of charcoal gray (Ben's favorite color). These were just a few of the colors that we were surrounded by during our four day stay on the Hawaii of Korea, Jeju Island. Though quite different than how we would imagine Hawaii to be, Jeju had so much beauty to see and unique places to explore.

Our four days consisted of: a bumpy, but short, flight in; long walks; a bus ride through lush forests with all shades of green; three waterfalls (one was inside a restaurant); many colorful flowers; one very blue ocean; a few whistling, diving fisher-women; one scooter; two horses; many stunning views; six beaches; one sunset; four cold hands; two wind-burned faces; a few wrong turns; even more beautiful views from our wrong turns; two heads of helmet hair; two socks that were transformed into racing gloves; a dozen misquito bites; some late night ice-cream; miles and miles of coastline, and an abundance of memories. Oh, and did I mention the airplanes? We stayed about 100 yards from the airport runway.

Anyhow, we have many memories and beautiful pictures to share.
There are many detailed stories are after all the pictures!

We took almost 300 pictures, and trying to decide which images best captured our experience was indeed difficult. We 'narrowed' down about 50 of our favorites and put them into an online photo album for you to view. All you need to do is CLICK HERE FOR MORE OF OUR FAVORITE PICTURES!

If you don't have time for the 50, you can catch a glimpse if you just scroll down.

Some green with a small island in the background.

The coastline offered beautiful views everywhere we looked.

Our main mode of transportation (and our new favorite!)

We saw the sunset just in time before returning the hog. Ahem, scooter.

Fishing boats dotted the ocean on the northwest coast. This view was the result of one of our wrong turns, combined with Ben's manoeuvreing the scooter on a small, perhaps closed, road.

One of the two beatiful waterfalls (this one was real).

Our favorite beach. It was too chilly to go in the water, but simply amazing to look at!


He looks like a real cowboy. We splurged on a 15 minute ride, but the scenery was worth it!

Actually, I look more like the cowboy. Or cowgirl? This was my first real ride!

We didn't realize that our outfits were going to compliment nature so well.


Don't forget, there is a lot more to see: CLICK HERE FOR MORE OF OUR FAVORITE PICTURES!

OUR STORIES
The Scooter:
Our preferred transportation while on the island was a dark gray, 125 cc engine scooter with a sticker near the front headlight that proclaimed "My bike is a beast!" It proved its strength by taking us through meandering roads along the JeJu Island coastline. It even went "off road" a couple of times. Sort of.

To say that the time on the scooter was liberating would be an understatement. For two days, we were not confined to public transportation. We were not confined to roads, either, as Korean scooters seem to fit perfectly on sidewalks. We could go wherever we wanted to go, whenever we wanted to go. And it was beautiful. A subway ride offers a view of...well, nothing. A bus is better, but all you see is concrete. The scooter provided us a constant view of ocean, rocks, and more ocean. The only thing missing from the experience was a constant breeze through our hair, thanks to the very safe, and very attractive, helmets.

The first sunset (attempt):
Our first day with the scooter was an adventure. We spent an hour looking for the bank and a gas station in the city. After driving all around town, desperately searching for fuel before we were burning fumes, we filled up. A stop at the bank, and we were on our way. We drove a quick highway road to the southeast coast, visited a beach, and then planned to drive along the coast road to return home. The sun was out, the wind from our blazing speed kept us cool, and the views all around were just wonderful. This was the day when we stopped to ride horses. The weather was perfect for riding, the skies clear and welcoming. We thought that it was a perfect opportunity to see a sunset, considering that we would be passing a place called "Sunset Rock" on our ride home. Our goal was to make it there before the sun went down.

So, Ben put the scooter to the limit and we raced along the coast to the sunset island. The farmland that we passed through was stunning, and we were anticipating some spectacular views of the sky. Well, the sky had a different plan, as it suddenly turned to a gloomy, gray, misty sight. Not only that, but the temperature dropped significantly--all in a matter of minutes. Our quick speed on the bike made it feel even colder on our limbs. Our hopes of a beautiful sunset were dashed. The goal was to get back to the hotel as soon as possible, and as dry as possible. The "as warm as possible" was lost when the sun went behind the clouds. By this time, it was as hilarious as it was miserable. Ben was taking the brunt of the wind with his hands and his face, and I was simply underdressed.

I felt like we needed to invest in some leather chaps by the end of the day.
My legs were so tired and my hips were begging to move after being in the same position for so many hours. Despite the pain, the agonizing pain, our ride was worth it. Our hotel room was warm and welcoming, with its heated floors and instant coffee. We thawed out, laughed at our red sun and wind burned faces, and went to dinner.

In preparation for the next day's ride, we sacrificed a pair of my socks, which were transformed into Michael Jackson-esque biker gloves. Ben also made use of my bandana as a face mask. When worn with the goggles, his face was entirely hidden, and quite intimidating. A true hog rider.

The Airport:
When we booked our hotel, we were told it was a convenient 10 minute car ride from the airport. Our self-proclaimed hotel "captain" picked us up in his Korean Kia SUV, and were on the way to our vacation home. As we approached the ten minute mark, we noticed that we were near the airport again. Actually, we were driving next to the runway. It didn't seem like a big deal. So, we proceeded to our room, and started to unpack the bags.

It was then that we heard something that resembled a missle, or something like it, about to land on our building. At the very moment when the sound reached the it-couldn't-get-any-louder-unless-it-hit-us point, it started to subside. A plane had flown over us. It took a few more planes to pass over for me to stop worrying about one of them falling out of the sky. It wasn't a big deal at all, in fact, by the next day, it was actually a game for me to catch a plane flying overhead on the video camera.

The Taxi Ride:
Korean taxis are cheap. The base fee is usually around two dollars, and everything seems close in the city, so we can usually get around pretty well with a our limited Korean and a few bucks. While in Jeju, before we had our scooters, we took the bus to the southern coast. We explored on foot, found some amazing sights, and then wanted to return to the bus stop. Well, we couldn't exactly find the bus stop, but managed to stumble upon my favorite coffee shop along the way. We quenched our thirst with some iced coffees, and asked for directions. The barista pointed to the direction we had just come from, and assured us that the bus stop was "over there". We had just come from "over there", and so we were convinced that we would have seen it. We didn't listen to her advice.

Shame on us. We hailed a taxi, asked to go to the bus station, and he said, OK. Well, two dollars and 17 seconds later, the cab was stopped, and we were halfway around the roundabout. There we were, standing outside, perplexed, and staring at the coffee shop across the street. The bus stop was a bit inconspicuous, so we probably would have asked the woman inside the "bus station" for directions to the bus station. Perhaps our embarassing two dollar loss spared us from more embarassment afterall.

The horses:
Many people may not know that Ben's dad grew up with horses all around. Ben wanted to show off his inheirited ability to ride in order to impress me, so we agreed that we would travel the "horse road" and see what adventure we could find. See, in Korea, the theory of business is much different than what we are familiar with in America. If you want clothes, you go to the clothes market. If you want fabric, you go to the fabric market. If you want paper, well, you know, you borrow some from work. Anyway, things and places are generally grouped together by category, rather than being spread out (business competition is different, I guess).

Instead of having horse riding (not horseback riding) on different areas of the island, there was a 5 KM stretch that had about 8 different "ranches". They weren't really ranches, but rather tourist stops that had your choice of go-kart, four-wheeler, or, for the old fashioned folk, horses.

It was my first "real" horse ride, so I was excited and a little nervous. My anxiety subsided, however, when I saw my horse. It looked average size, actually...until the worker arrived on his horse, which was substantially bigger, taller, and more powerful. Ben was a bit jealous that my horse was the "dark one" and he got stuck with a white horse, his least favorite color.

We began our ride after a make-shift photo session, where the man on the big horse insisted that we come closer together. I'd imagine that he was saying something like "come in close, like you love each other" in Korean. Anyway, after a few shots, we were on our way. I thought it would be a good idea to take some nature shots on the camera, considering the beautiful scenery surrounding us. Well, I didn't understand what the Korean man on the big horse said (who was, interestingly enough holding a leash connected to my horse). My good idea turned sour when we began a medium-paced trot. Remember, it was my first time. So, I quickly grabbed onto my saddle, put the camera away, and tried not to fall off.

Ben enjoyed his freedom on the white horse behind us (they became friends), while my hourse and I were pulled by the man with the big horse. They even gave him a whip! Our speed changed from slow, to kind-of-fast, to "oh, no! Am I going to fall off???" It was a blast. My only hindrance from feeling like a real cowgirl was that my leg was often pinned between my horse and the big horse's hind quarters. At one time, we gained so much speed that Ben thinks it was a fast canter. After 15 minutes, our overpriced ride was finished, but well worth every Won (penny).

The Waterfall:
Actually, I should title this "The Top of the Waterfall". My adventurous husband loves to look at waterfalls and rocks, and pretty much anything in nature. However, the view of the waterfall from the place where everyone else looks at it (the bottom) is simply unsatisfying. So, he convinced me to go to the top.

It wasn't a hike up a mountain or anything that you would typically expect. All that we had to do was walk down a road, cut through the small gap between the bridge and the road, hop down next to the river, and walk across the rocks. Even so, we had to do all of this without falling, for fear that the six-inch river current would drag me down to the edge of the waterfall. It wasn't really that threatening at all, but that adventurous husband of mine went closer than I was comfortable with. As he made his way closer to the edge, I had to stop and wait, reminding him not to fall off. The more he leaned over the edge to get a good view (and some great pictures), the more nervous I got. He was very cautious, and we both survived without incident. I got my nerves back, and we were on our way to the next adventure.